Sunny Thursday

I'm just going to go for it and indulge the macabre in me.  All of the funerary art photographed is from Greyfriar's Kirkyard, except for three from St. Cuthbert's and three from Old Calton Burial Ground.

Night Cometh When No Man Can Work

I will not wholly die.

Exterior Wall of Greyfriar's Kirk - mathematician Colin MacLaurin is memorialized on the top right.

The MacKenzie Tomb

Memento Mori - Remember you must die.

Nobody does it like the Scots!  I can't help but wonder, especially with all the repetitions of "Memento Mori," if they had Psalm 90:12 in mind: "So teach us to number our days that we may get a heart of wisdom."

We just don't make tombstones like this any longer.  We are so practical, we moderns, that we make little flat stones so that the person mowing the lawn will have no difficulty.  I don't see anyone 300 years from now visiting our cemeteries!

Though Greyfriar's Kirkyard is open year round, Greyfriar's Kirk is not open to visitors most of the year.  My previous visits were in March and November, with my current visit being in May, I got to go in finally!  This kirk was built in 1620, and there's a lot of history to explore here, especially regarding the Covenanters.

 I was totally not expecting this!

 I'd been thinking about worshiping at Canongate Kirk this Sunday, where the Queen worships when she is in town, but it might just have to be Greyfriar's instead.  I confirmed with a docent that the organ is played every Sunday.

 I have to step back out into the kirkyard a bit to share a few more stories of this place.  The first has to do with the Covenanters, Scottish Presbyterians who signed a covenant here at this church in 1638 promising to keep Presbyterianism free from the influence of the Crown.  An area of the kirkyard that is gated was used as a prison for over 1000 men.  They were kept here, without shelter, for over 4 months.  It's a very long story - easily found by searching - so I'll just end this bit with words from an engraving in the kirkyard commemorating them:

Halt passenger, take heed what you do see; 

This tomb doth shew for what some men did die.

 On a lighter note, J. K. Rowling used to walk through this kirkyard when she was writing the Harry Potter novels.  Many of the names used in the novels were inspired by names on the stones.  In the photos below you see the names Potter, Moodie, McGonagall, and Riddell (Riddle)

 During part of the day when I was here, there were about 8 tour groups coming through at the same time.  Nearly all the guides were dressed like Harry Potter.  When I came over to get my picture of the Thomas Riddell stone, the guide was talking about how famous this grave has become.  It seems it has become even more popular with tourists than the Jim Morrison grave or the Chopin grave in Pere Lachaise, Paris.

OK, one more Greyfriar's related story, that of Greyfriar's Bobby.  When his master, John Grey, died in 1858, Bobby followed the funeral procession and watched as his master's coffin was lowered into the ground.  He then faithfully watched over the grave for the remaining 14 years of his life.  Here too, there is much more to the story that a quick search will bring up.

Let his loyalty and devotion be a lesson to us all.

 Bobby's gravestone is the one above, and his master's is of the same stone and style in the picture below.  Visitors place sticks (for fetch) on his grave to honor him.  Greyfriar's Bobby could not be buried with or near his master, as this is sanctified ground and for humans only, but they did bury him as close as possible - withing the kirk grounds, but not technically in the kirkyard.

 A statue of this faithful dog was commissioned and it sits not far outside the kirkyard, between Candlemaker Row and George IV Bridge.

 His nose remains bronze in color, because everyone who walks past rubs it - as shown below.

 In between the statue and Greyfriar's is a pub named Greyfriar's Bobby.  The story of Greyfriar's Bobby has been told in two movies that I'm aware of, and perhaps more.

Another stop today took me to Gladstone's Land.  It's one of the oldest buildings on the Royal Mile, dating back to the 1400s.  

 Oh boy, here we go again!

 You can see the spiral staircase in the construction of the first-level apartment.

 The paintings on the ceiling are from 1620 - original - it is thought they may have had symbolic meaning having to do with religion (since this was a time, after the Reformation, that being Catholic was dangerous).  The theme of the painting may have been a way to "secretly" share one's religions convictions.  This had been plastered over, and the National Trust was surprised to find it when they came into possession of the building.

 This secretary was so cool!  I think the docent said it has 18 hidden compartments.  She only knew of three and showed me the three she knows.  This was built before there were banks in Scotland, so people kept their money and their valuables at home.  Each such piece of furniture would have been uniquely built so that only the owners (and the builder) knew of the secret compartments.  At least one such builder was a builder by day and a thief by night, because he knew where the hidden compartments were!  He was eventually caught and hanged - should have just stuck with his carpentry!

 Though this house dates from the 1400s, it was modified many times.  The image below is of a room added on in the mid-1700s, in the Georgian Era, when the New Town was being built.  Gotta keep up with the Joneses, you know.  At this time it was important to people to SHOW their wealth, whereas today I feel most people try to conceal their wealth.  Here wealth can be seen in the painting above the fireplace (rather than a painted ceiling), by paneled walls, and by large-paned windows (not shown).

 And then back out onto the Royal Mile:

St. Giles Cathedral

Heart of Midlothian

Edinburgh Awards

J. K. Rowling

Peter Higgs CH FRS FRSE - Nobel Prize winner - he of Higgs boson fame -

Alexander and Bucephalus (though I don't know why)

 The John Knox House, also on the royal mile, dates back to the same time as Gladstone's Land.  David and I visited this in fall 2017, and it was spectacular, but I'm not feeling a need to go through again.

John Knox House

John Knox House - Love God above all and your neighbor as yourself.

Mercat Cross

I spent the evening on Calton Hill, so the images below are on and from Calton Hill.

Heading Up

Looking out over the Firth of Forth

Monument to mathematician John Playfair

Observatory (John Playfair monument in foreground)

For many reasons, this being one of them, Edinburgh is called the "Athens of the North."

View from Hill to Hill (Calton to Arthur's Seat)

Hills with a town between

 I work hard to keep the cranes out of my photos, but I thought I'd post a picture to illustrate how challenging that can be!

 I thought about gaming tonight, as Thursday is the night that the Game Hub hosts single players - allowing newbies and loners(?) to join in.  Had I shown up earlier I could have connected, but since it was a sunny day I wanted to spend my time outside. 

I did head downstairs to see if anyone was looking for extra players, but it was packed out (and I was exhausted anyway).  I was glad to see the classics being played as well as the newer games.  The following two photos were taken on either side of the shelved wall.  I'm glad to see so many games available!

And, to end with some castle photos.  This was actually my first stop today.  I'd heard that The Vennels was a good place for getting photos of the castle.  I also included Flodden Wall (1560), which became part of the old city wall.

There is so much to do in this city.  In 10 days I will barely be scratching the surface.  If anyone comes to Edinburgh and feels bored, well, they're just not even trying!